DESTINATION…ISLE ROYALE!
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As the summer winds down and your family recaps the season’s adventures, discussions often take place about next year’s trips. If your family is truly wild about nature and immersing yourselves amongst it, consider a trek next summer to Michigan’s most rugged national park, that of Isle Royale!
Rising out of the frigid depths of Lake Superior, some 56 miles off the northwest tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula, Isle Royale sits in wait for the next family of hikers, backpackers, fishermen, kayakers, canoeists, birdwatchers, wildlife photographers or just casual tourists who want to see nature in its’ purest form. This is a massive island, measuring 45 miles in length and encompassing 210 square miles, providing visitors with plenty to land to roam.
Although one of the three national parks within our state’s boundaries, very few folks are aware of the island and even fewer have travelled to its’ granite shores to take in it’s truly unique feeling. However the solitude and splendor of it’s rocky outer shoreline and the diversity of it’s interior draw visitors back for a return trip more so than any other national park. Historically, Isle Royale is the least visited of the national parks but the most revisited in the park system. This speaks volumes as to the impression the island leaves upon its’ guests.
Just to clarify, if an island vacation to you, congers up visions of white sandy beaches and warm tropical waters, then Isle Royale is not the place for you to visit. But if you place value on truly getting away from it all, then this is the island for you. Peace comes first in the form an electronic release. You see, there are no cell phones needed on the island as there is no reception; thus, no emails, voice mails, texts or twitters to disrupt your time with your family. And don’t even think about watching a TV.
Isle Royale is seen only by foot or by float. There are no cars, trucks, bikes or even horses. There are only footways and waterways for which you can travel to see the rock outcroppings, cedar swamps, bogs, marshes and numerous inland lakes that make up the island.
Isle Royale’s inhabitants are as unique as the island itself. Deer and coyote that are so commonly seen on the main land, are nowhere to be seen on the island. This is the land of moose and wolves, eagles and loons. In fact, the island is host to the longest running scientific study of predator-prey systems in the world, focusing on the complex relationship between the resident moose and wolves. While a wolf sighting is quite rare, many visitors are rewarded with a moose sighting or two during their visit.
There are 165 miles of hiking trails designed to give hikers a taste of the varied landscapes and natural eye candy that bring folks back, visit after visit. Hikers need to constantly keep their eyes on the trail as the unforgiving rock ground forces roots to grow in toe-grabbing fashion. Designated group and individual campsites are strategically located around the island, many of which offer charming wood shelters that are available on a first-come, first-served basis. These three sided wooden structures offer a screened front to provide a view of your site with great protection from the ‘unfriendlies’ of the island, namely foul weather and biting bugs. Mosquitoes and biting flies also call the island home, so plan accordingly with very strong repellent and loose fitting long sleeve shirts or hiking pants.
Most of the campsites are located on or very near water, giving the fishermen in your family plenty of opportunity to catch a fish in a lake, on the biggest island, in the biggest lake, in the world. Depending on the water you are fishing, there is opportunity for pike, walleye, perch, and lake trout amongst others. You need only a Michigan fishing license to legally wet a line on your trip.
Canoeing and kayaking are also tremendous ways to get around the island. They provide the traveler with tremendous opportunity to fish waters that a hiker can only view from a distance. However, first timers need to know that some inner-island portages are lengthy and quite rough in nature. I would highly recommend spending quality time with a map of the island to plan a route that is not too tough for a family adventure and for the folks that may be doing the bulk of the boat transportation.
There is also a water taxi service available through the National Park Service (906.337.4993 summer, 270.773.2191 winter) that can drop you off (along with a canoe or kayak) to various ports around the island, expanding your chance to see a greater portion of the island within a shorter period of time. Sunset cruises along the coastline and through its’ many outer islands are available most nights during the summer tourist season.
If you would like to see the island, but not have to rough it, there are food and lodging accommodations at Rock Harbor, located on the NE tip of the island. Lodging is a tad pricey, but it gets you to the island without having to invest in all of the necessary camping gear. A days lodging will also get you a free half days canoe or kayak rental, on the normally calm, and awesomely scenic Tobin Harbor. There is a restaurant and small general store on the island, also located at Rock Harbor, ready to reward woodland adventurers with their favorite snack item or delicious meal.
The island is reachable by ferry service out of Houghton, Michigan aboard the Ranger III (906.482.0984 or www.nps.gov/isro/), with an approximate travel time of 6 hours. Many folks prefer the much shorter boat ride aboard the Isle Royale Queen IV (906.289.4437 or www.isleroyale.com), that departs from the enchanting town of Copper Harbor at the very tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula. There is also ferry service from the Grand Portage, Minnesota that offers the shortest boat trip but it would cost you several more hours in the car to get there. Lake Superior has many different personalities and should she be in a foul mood, the boat ride can be rough for those who experience motion sickness.
I would recommend departure from Copper Harbor as the trip through the Keweenaw Peninsula is almost as much of an adventure as Isle Royale. The mountainous land and rocky shoreline is very similar in nature to the makeup of the island. Copper Harbor offers many lodging opportunities including the campground at Fort Wilkins State Park, nestled on the shoreline of Lake Fanny Hoe. The Keweenaw Mountain Lodge (906.289.4403), allows your family the opportunity to turn back time and stay in cozy, traditional log cabins built at the turn of the century. Before your departure, both the Pines Restaurant and Tamarack Inn are open by 6:30 a.m. to send your family off with a hearty breakfast.
While, the Isle Royale greenstone is the state gem of Michigan, Isle Royale itself is the hidden gem within our wonderful state.
My name is Jonny and this is my awesome Isle Royale family adventure!